A Polish Adventure
Recently I had the incredible opportunity to spend a week with Husband in Poland. It required a lot of help from a lot of special people, and we are so grateful to all of them. At the risk of sounding like a TV special, here is an oft-requested retelling of a once-in-a-lifetime trip.
First of all, as costly as it was I got to briefly live like a superstar and travel business class. 10/10 would highly recommend.
The part I would not recommend is flying through Frankfurt, Germany. What should have been a leisurely layover turned into a mad dash across a large terminal after various snafus and delays. Note to self: even if you filled your water bottle from an airport water fountain, empty it before passport control and security so as not to be introduced to a German police officer who is apparently required to confirm that the water is actually water.
On my way home I had the pleasure of flying through Helsinki, Finland. The airport provides zero view of the country, but in exchange there are numerous lounge chairs, relaxing music, and a lot of souvenir reindeer and cows (the mascot of the Finnish coffee brand Moomin). There is even a small hut that is dedicated to Christmas 365 days a year, for those who are so inclined.
While there were so many great moments on the trip (keep reading), the best was easily this moment:
Ignore my red eyes -- that was a combination of jet lag and (despite me promising otherwise) having a big cry as soon as we met at the airport.
Upon first stepping into the main square of Krakow, I couldn't help but be overwhelmed. It's full of sights, sounds, smells, and people; weekends there are nonstop movement, although we discovered that there is never really a time when Krakow is turned off. It was hard to stay focused as we wandered the cobblestone streets -- every few steps there was another shop to discover or group of people to pass by. Street performers are everywhere; each night we were serenaded by an opera singer and a pair of accordion players outside our hotel window. One night we wandered by a local church and saw that an orchestral concert was starting in ten minutes. When in Poland...
Our first full day was spent at the nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking 720 steps down into the mine isn't for everyone, but the payoff is worthwhile. I honestly couldn't tell you much about what I learned about the mine (so here is a primer for those interested), but the most memorable part wasn't about mining at all. Given the deeply religious nature of the miners, it's no surprise that a combination of so much time spent underground and the desire to pray for safety led to the construction of multiple houses of worship...out of salt, of course.
Upon our return to the hotel, I was treated with a lovely surprise -- a birthday cake! When we checked in to Hotel Senaki I had to show my passport. The clerk noted my upcoming birthday and arranged for the treat. Truly, we adored where we stayed and it was the personal touches that made it special.
That night we decided to go out in style and visit one of the eighteen(!) Michelin star restaurants within walking distance of our hotel. This was our first realization in the cultural difference between the U.S. and Poland -- we were dressed to the nines and viewed this as a special dining occasion. The locals simply considered it a meal for a Monday. Nevertheless, the food at Szara was wonderful and I felt truly spoiled.
Speaking of food...you can find it all in Poland. Kebab stands are everywhere, as are stands for pizza, ice cream, a donut of sorts call paczkis, and a local food called zapiekanki (like a flatbread pizza). However, it also wasn't hard to find McDonalds, Starbucks, or even Kentucky Fried Chicken locations. My favorite, though, were the pierogis. Near our hotel was a small restaurant that felt like eating in Babcia's (grandma's) kitchen. Thank goodness for the miles of walking we did, because I ate my weight in potatoes, cheese, and ice cream.
One of the most impactful experiences we had was visiting Auschwitz. It wasn't something we necessarily wanted to do, but we knew we had to do. We went in early evening without a guided tour, which allowed us to process on our own time. Taking pictures didn't seem appropriate, but I can say that it was harder to see than I imagined yet nothing as I expected. People walked through the barracks and down the paths so quietly; it almost felt long to linger in any one spot, yet there was too much to absorb. Walking through the infamous gate proclaiming Arbeit Macht Frei ("Work Makes You Free") almost made my heart stop. As we left I found myself looking back, hardly believing that I had walked those grounds so casually. We must never forget.
To be honest, I never expected much of we saw in Poland. Houses and apartments all had the same architecture, yet some were crumbling while others were sleek and modern. Cobblestone streets lead to flashy shopping malls with designer stores. Murals and graffiti covered walls. Cars were in abundance, but so were bicycles and people traveling on foot. Women walked alone at night. Drivers and pedestrians weren't aggressive, but they were certainly ambivalent as they weaved through traffic without hesitation. Krakow has all the trappings of the first world while clinging to its rich culture and history.
One day in Krakow was spent trekking from one end of the city to the other in an attempt to see as much as possible. We crossed a bridge full of lovers' locks as we found what was the Krakow Ghetto and Oskar Schindler's factory, which is now an exceptionally detailed museum. A monument to the ghetto featured the Jewish Heroes Square covered in chairs, representing those lost in the resistance against the Nazis. Some treated the area with reverence, while others (in a nod perhaps to how Judaism is perceived in Poland) sat in the chairs while on their phones. Going back across the bridge led us to a historic basilica and to Wawel Castle, which housed generations of Polish royalty. To end the day we found ourselves at the trendy Bunny Cafe -- which does, in fact, offer patrons the chance to hang out with bunny rabbits.
Our final day was spent on a tour of Zakopane, a mountain resort about 90 minutes away from Krakow. En route we stopped in Chocolaw, a village known for its wooden buildings. The annual cleaning of the buildings is apparently a huge event, and shepherds offer fresh cheese to tourists passing through. Zakopane itself is very much a resort town, which reminded Husband and I of our travels through Colorado. A funicular train takes you high into the Tatras Mountains, providing a breathtaking view for miles. Being there outside of ski season made it easier to appreciate the natural beauty of the area, although I could only imagine it all covered in sparkling snow. We also got to end our tour with a trip to the thermal baths, which is unlike the natural hot spring I envisioned. Instead, we found ourselves as a huge water park with numerous levels, bars, and pools of varying temperatures. It was a uniquely fun way to end our trip.
Saying goodbye was difficult in so many ways. We could have easily stayed longer and never run out of things to do. Not having Little Man there with us left a noticeable void. but the chance for the two of us to connect during this time was priceless.
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